First and foremost, the old Gucci girl is no more. The collection clearly indicates Gucci’s shift in direction from its former creative directors, Frida Gianini’s usual urban and sleek signature sophistication and Tom Ford’s hyper refined sexiness. Alessandro Michele, the new creative director of the Italian fashion house, took a complete break from the past and designed a collection inspired from the romanticism of the streets, which had a soft and relaxed feel to it, which in itself conveyed a message of bringing in a state of freedom. Eccentric at times, the new Gucci girl loves her vintage pieces, geek chic rimmed glasses, berets and fur lined horse-bit loafers, minus any pretentious sophistication.
With a strong gender bender element, the show witnessed both male and female models walking the runway wearing similar kind of cuts, and tailoring. The silk shirts with poet bows and loose and slouchy pant suits were reminiscent of Alessandro’s gender neutral menswear collection earlier this year. The collection included retro floral prints, seventies pant suits, bird embroidery, ruffles, pleated velvet skirts, military style coats, along with transparent lace blouse and dresses.
The clothes were not conventionally good looking - the creases, the earthy dull tones and the worn out washed looks. There was a deliberate attempt to change the idea of luxury and how we look at designer clothes. Whether the idea of an extremely laid back luxury clothing collection will work for the loss making brand or not is yet to be seen, however the desperate need for a change was clearly visible in the collection, the new Gucci girl is young, a thrift shopper who is rebellious yet sober, and an old school romantic.