Now, this is one home coming that all of us were waiting for. Ending his almost four year exile, the disgraced and one of the most admired designers of our time, John Galliano presented his Artisanal Couture Collection for Maison Martin Margiela in London yesterday. The anticipation for this show was so high that it also had a hashtag of its own #MargielaMonday.
For the fashion house, the collection was a process of discovery, returning to one’s roots. The official statement describes the collection as a deep commitment to the extraordinary possibilities of the Maison's Atelier and the art of Haute Couture.The question is, for a brand which is known for its understatement and anonymity, how relevant is Galliano’s theatrics and flamboyance. What will be the final outcome of this marriage between two different aesthetics?
Being an ardent John Galliano lover, i believe his association with Margiela is just a beginning of another wonderful chapter. As for the collection it has its own beauty, but i have not embraced it completely.I am not disappointed either, because he also gives us a great sense of imaginative possibilities. This is one show, where what mattered most, more than the clothes, was the journey of reincarnation. He has definitely engaged us in a process of dialogue, at times even pushing us to be inquisitively critical about the direction of couture business. Yes, it was highly Avant-Garde, it was artisanal that had John’s unique signature, but am not sure if this is the future of couture or for that matter if the collection is going to change the course of fashion.
Deconstruction and construction were the main story, reminiscent of the Margiela’s philosophy of design. Keeping the essence of recycled and artisanal couture alive, he used toy cars as trims, shells, shredded chiffon, mirror and translucent pockets. Not that the collection was all about surreal fantasy, dramatic bejewelled pieces and masks. In a parade of black, white and red, the collection was a blend of excess yet minimal design aesthetics and offered some wearable pieces like the tailored pant suits, evening dresses, denim shorts and jackets.
John has made it official; he is back, not with a bang, but in his own pace. His creativity and showmanship is still intact, as one could see in some of the garments. Was it a return to John's former glories? Perhaps yes, in parts. This was John’s way of exploring his inner demons and burying the ghost of the past. But yes, he has returned and the fashion world has a reason to raise a toast .Am optimistic!